4 Piece Bluetooth Stereo

Back once again with a new design that can be used as a standalone stereo or a sound system for your TV. The possibilities are endless! Are the models are able to be printed on printer with a build volume of 220x220x220 or larger. Below is a detailed list of materials and instructions. So let's jump in! https://a.co/d/dHMe1dB Qty. of 2 Full Range Drivers https://a.co/d/cxcnzVB Qty. of 1 (They come as a pair) High Range Speakers https://a.co/d/9LvKOFR Qty. of 1 Subwoofer https://a.co/d/ceG14kO Qty of 1 Amplifier https://a.co/d/bcReaoj Speaker Terminal Connectors https://a.co/d/eVlNAfZ M3 Heat Sink Nuts https://a.co/d/1YUidsw M3 Screw Set https://a.co/d/eYOqxEn Speaker Wire First we will start with amplifier housing, all you have to do is use 8 of the heat sink nuts in each of the holes in the lower part of the housing. I used 4 of the 5mm M3 screws with washers to mount the amp and four 10mm screws to mount the lid. Second will be the speaker towers. You will need to print 2 towers, 2 speaker enclosure middle caps and 2 lids for the towers. Once printed you will need 14 heat sink nuts per tower. 4 on top, 8 on the front and 2 on the back. Test fitment of the speakers, the terminal connector on the back and the lid. If all fits nicely it's time to solder the wires to the terminal unit at the back of the tower. One pair for the lower speaker and one for the upper. Now take middle separation piece and pass the upper speaker wire through the 4mm hole and glue that piece it into the middle of the speaker tower where the over hangs are on the inside of the box about mid way down. Solder or use female connectors for the leads to the speakers and mount everything up with the screws. I used four 5mm screws for the flat faced speaker and four 8mm screws for the top rounded speaker. I use two 5mm screws for the terminal connector in the back and four 10mm screws for the lid. Third and final is the subwoofer box which is very similar to the towers. Use ten of your heat sink nuts