Modified Wilson II Printer
di rkweber404
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NOTE: Please see important update3/27/2020
Originally, I became interested in converting my Flashforge Creator Pro to use a Diamond hotend. After much work toward this end, I decided that it would be more practical to build a completely new printer. So, as a starting point, I chose to use the Wilson II/Prusa design as published by Marty Rice www.thingiverse.com/thing:1086101 . I named my printer WWIII (Weber-Wilson III).
My printer is basically the same as the original, but with a 300mm x 300mm bed and many changes or modifications to most of the parts. There are two power supplies, a 24V supply for the heated bed, and a 12V supply for everything else. In order to isolate the two supplies and take the high current bed load off the mainboard, a solid-state relay is utilized. The two supplies fit nicely between the Y-axis rails along with the relay. I modified the original bed mount using bearing holders that eliminate the original wire-tie mounts. All parts were printed in AB
Originally, I became interested in converting my Flashforge Creator Pro to use a Diamond hotend. After much work toward this end, I decided that it would be more practical to build a completely new printer. So, as a starting point, I chose to use the Wilson II/Prusa design as published by Marty Rice www.thingiverse.com/thing:1086101 . I named my printer WWIII (Weber-Wilson III).
My printer is basically the same as the original, but with a 300mm x 300mm bed and many changes or modifications to most of the parts. There are two power supplies, a 24V supply for the heated bed, and a 12V supply for everything else. In order to isolate the two supplies and take the high current bed load off the mainboard, a solid-state relay is utilized. The two supplies fit nicely between the Y-axis rails along with the relay. I modified the original bed mount using bearing holders that eliminate the original wire-tie mounts. All parts were printed in AB
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