Thingiverse
RC TANK
by SzymoEN
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Makes
Non-printed components:
-Arduino Uno (or a clone)
-Arduino L293D Motor Driver Shield
-HC-05 Bluetooth module
-4x N20 geared DC motors
-Battery (The battery compartment is 30mm x 60mm and about 34mm in height. I used a 2--cell 1100mAh LiPo battery.)
-1mm steel wire (1 meter should be enough)
-Printed parts:
-1x chassis_bottom.stl
-1x chassis_top.stl
-4x gear_12.stl
-70x tank_tread.stl (35 for each side)
Likely problems:
- Track tolerances might be too tight for your printer. If that's the case, just cut some material off inside the track hinges. (Small amounts of binding are fine and will wear off while driving.)
- Removing supports from the motor mount can be quite challenging. I used a small screwdriver to help.
- After assembling everything, the vehicle might not drive perfectly straight (the motors don’t have proper encoders, thus no RPM control). The best way to fix it is to swap motors between sides. To test which side is stronger, place the tank
-Arduino Uno (or a clone)
-Arduino L293D Motor Driver Shield
-HC-05 Bluetooth module
-4x N20 geared DC motors
-Battery (The battery compartment is 30mm x 60mm and about 34mm in height. I used a 2--cell 1100mAh LiPo battery.)
-1mm steel wire (1 meter should be enough)
-Printed parts:
-1x chassis_bottom.stl
-1x chassis_top.stl
-4x gear_12.stl
-70x tank_tread.stl (35 for each side)
Likely problems:
- Track tolerances might be too tight for your printer. If that's the case, just cut some material off inside the track hinges. (Small amounts of binding are fine and will wear off while driving.)
- Removing supports from the motor mount can be quite challenging. I used a small screwdriver to help.
- After assembling everything, the vehicle might not drive perfectly straight (the motors don’t have proper encoders, thus no RPM control). The best way to fix it is to swap motors between sides. To test which side is stronger, place the tank
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