Thingiverse
W2D-IV Trailing ARM Mod
von WrenchToDrive
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Hi guys,
Warning: If you have problems with part strength, be prepared to do some work on your print process if you want to have success running this crawler. It is BIG and the parts need to be strong. I had my first experience with bad (brittle) PLA while testing this and I now understand the bad experiences that some people have had. My next buy is going to be PLA+ because the added flexibility should help a lot. I'm using a batch of Solutech that I got dirt cheap, but some of it is terrible and some not bad, so take that for what you will. I found the old Amazon Basics PLA to be quite strong, for what that's worth.
To get strong parts: Make them solid. Print them lying down. Use a criss cross infill pattern. Play with the heat to get it as high as you can without the plastic going brittle. Usually, right about where the stringing starts is good for me. Zero stringing is not the strongest part IMO. Over extrusion is better than under extrusion. Your mileage may va
Warning: If you have problems with part strength, be prepared to do some work on your print process if you want to have success running this crawler. It is BIG and the parts need to be strong. I had my first experience with bad (brittle) PLA while testing this and I now understand the bad experiences that some people have had. My next buy is going to be PLA+ because the added flexibility should help a lot. I'm using a batch of Solutech that I got dirt cheap, but some of it is terrible and some not bad, so take that for what you will. I found the old Amazon Basics PLA to be quite strong, for what that's worth.
To get strong parts: Make them solid. Print them lying down. Use a criss cross infill pattern. Play with the heat to get it as high as you can without the plastic going brittle. Usually, right about where the stringing starts is good for me. Zero stringing is not the strongest part IMO. Over extrusion is better than under extrusion. Your mileage may va
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