Thingiverse
RetroPrinter
by Mindfab
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Initially, I had the idea to rebuild my old (outdated and partially broken Reprap/Prusa) into a robust 20x20 frame. I also wanted to have a larger (especially in z direction) build area and a to have an isolated build chamber.
Well, this is what came out.
It has the following features and drawbacks:
- Everything is robust :) With the right tools, etching and milling (in wood) should be possible.
- Everything is in a box.
- Build Volume is 200x200x400, although you can print up to 250x250x400 Vases that start on the 200x200 footprint.
- It's an easy and well proven design. It fixes z-wooble, z-inaccuracy and z-backlash issues by using using backlash nuts, by using a fixed (in z-direction) lead-screw and by fixing the z-axis in a robost frame.
- Well, it's not optimal with respect to build volume, if you want to maximize it out, you should go with a nice CoreXY design.
- Well, it's also not optimal with respect to maximum speed, since you have to move the mass of the build be
Well, this is what came out.
It has the following features and drawbacks:
- Everything is robust :) With the right tools, etching and milling (in wood) should be possible.
- Everything is in a box.
- Build Volume is 200x200x400, although you can print up to 250x250x400 Vases that start on the 200x200 footprint.
- It's an easy and well proven design. It fixes z-wooble, z-inaccuracy and z-backlash issues by using using backlash nuts, by using a fixed (in z-direction) lead-screw and by fixing the z-axis in a robost frame.
- Well, it's not optimal with respect to build volume, if you want to maximize it out, you should go with a nice CoreXY design.
- Well, it's also not optimal with respect to maximum speed, since you have to move the mass of the build be
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